Mera and Island peak climbing via Amphu Lapcha pass
Detailed itinerary for the Mera and Island Peak climbing via the Amphu Lapcha Pass
Climbing Mera and Island Peak via the Amphu Lapcha Pass and then proceeding to climb Island Peak is a challenging and technical endeavor that requires advanced mountaineering skills and experience in high-altitude alpine terrain. Both peaks are situated in the Everest region of Nepal and are popular choices for climbers seeking to tackle multiple peaks in a single expedition. Here’s a general overview of the difficulty involved in this combined climb:
Mera Peak via Amphu Lapcha Pass: Mera Peak (6,476 meters / 21,247 feet) is the highest trekking peak in the Khumbu Region and offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks. Climbing Mera Peak involves basic mountaineering skills and acclimatization to high altitudes. The standard route typically includes trekking to Mera Base Camp, setting up high camps, and making a summit push. While it’s not technically difficult, it does require a good level of fitness and acclimatization to cope with the altitude.
The real challenge comes when you combine Mera Peak with the Amphu Lapcha Pass (5,845 meters / 19,175 feet), a technical and physically demanding high pass that connects the Khumbu and Hinku valleys. This pass requires rope work, ice climbing, and mountaineering skills to navigate crevasses and steep slopes. It’s considered a difficult alpine route, and climbers need to be proficient in using crampons, ice axes, and ropes to ensure safety during the crossing.
Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, stands at 6,189 meters (20,305 feet). While it is technically less challenging than some of the other peaks in the region, it still requires basic mountaineering skills and the ability to navigate glacial terrain. The climb includes some steep sections and a final ridge that leads to the summit. Using ropes and crampons is common on this route.
Combining both Mera Peak via Amphu Lapcha Pass and Island Peak climbs involves a long and demanding expedition with varying terrain, altitude challenges, and technical difficulties. Climbers attempting this combination should have the following:
High-altitude experience: Both peaks are located at significant altitudes, so proper acclimatization and experience with high-altitude environments are essential to avoid altitude-related health issues.
Technical skills: Proficiency in using mountaineering equipment like ice axes, crampons, ropes, and harnesses is crucial, especially for the Amphu Lapcha Pass and the glaciated sections of Island Peak.
Physical fitness: Excellent cardiovascular and muscular endurance are necessary for demanding ascents and challenging terrain.
Mental resilience: Long days of climbing, exposure to changing weather conditions, and the inherent risks of alpine climbing require a strong mental attitude.
Experienced guides and support: Enlisting the help of experienced guides or joining a reputable expedition company is highly recommended. They can provide guidance, logistics, and support in challenging situations.
In conclusion, climbing Mera Peak via Amphu Lapcha Pass and proceeding to climb Island Peak is a highly challenging endeavor that requires a combination of physical fitness, technical skills, high-altitude experience, and mental fortitude. It’s essential to be well-prepared and adequately trained before attempting such a demanding expedition.
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu
Arrive in Kathmandu and transfer to your hotel and free visit to Kathmandu city.
Day 2: Kathmandu
Meet your climbing team, discuss the trek details, and make the necessary preparations. Overnight stay in Kathmandu.
Day 3: Kathmandu to Lukla (2,800 meters/9,186 feet)
And trek to Paiya (2,730 meters/8,956 feet) Start trekking towards Paiya, passing through beautiful landscapes and Sherpa villages. Overnight stay in Paiya. 2-3 hours.
Day 4: Paiya to Pangkongma (2,846 meters/9,337 feet)
Trek through lush forests and rhododendron groves. Enjoy stunning views of the surrounding mountains. Overnight stay in Pangkongma for 5-6 hours.
Day 5: Pangkongma to Nashing Dingma (2,600 meters/8,530 feet)
Continue trekking through dense forests and picturesque landscapes. Pass through several Sherpa settlements along the way. Overnight stay in the Nashing Dingma-5-6-hrs.
Day 6: Nashing Dingma to Chalem Kharka (3,600 meters/11,811 feet)
Trek uphill to reach Chalem Kharka. Enjoy panoramic views of the Himalayan peaks. Overnight stay in Chalem Kharka-5-6-hrs.
Day 7: Chalem Kharka to Chunbu Kharka (4,200 meters/13,779 feet)
Trek to Chunbu Kharka, ascending through alpine meadows and rocky trails. Witness the beauty of the surrounding landscapes. Overnight stay in Chunbu Kharka-5-6-hrs.
Day 8: Chunbu Kharka to Kothe (3,691 meters/12,110 feet)
Descend to Kothe, passing through dense forests. Explore the local area and interact with the Sherpa community. Overnight stay in Kothe-5-6-hrs.
Day 9: Kothe to Thangnak (4,350 meters/14,271 feet)
Trek through beautiful rhododendron forests and along the banks of the Hinku River. Reach Thangnak, a small village with stunning mountain views. Overnight stay in Thangnak-4-5-hrs.
Day 10: Acclimatization Day in Thangnak
Take a rest day to acclimatize to the altitude. Explore the surrounding area and enjoy the scenic beauty. Overnight stay in Thangnak.
Day 11: Trek To Khare (5,045 Meters) 3-4 Hours.
The trail continues along the lateral moraine of the Dig Glacier. As you approach Khare, you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views of Mera Peak. Khare is the base camp for Mera Peak climbing. Overnight stay in Khare.
Day 12: Acclimatization And Preparations In Khare
Spend the day in Khare for further acclimatization. You can also utilize this time to receive climbing
Day 13: Trek To Mera High Camp (5,780 Meters) 3-4 Hours.
Today, you’ll ascend to Mera La, which is a high pass situated between the Hinku Valley and the Hongu Valley. The trek involves crossing glaciers and navigating through snowy terrain. After reaching Mera La, set up a high camp for the night.
Day 14: Summit Day – Mera Peak (6,461 Meters) 10-11-Hrs.
This is the most challenging and rewarding day of the expedition. Start early in the morning to make the ascent to the summit of Mera Peak. The climb involves using crampons, ropes, and ice axes. From the summit, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the Himalayas. After spending some time at the summit, descend back to Kongmadingma.
Day 15: Kongmadingma to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp (5,000 meters/16,404 feet)
Begin the journey towards the Amphu Lapcha Base Camp Trek through rugged terrains and icy trails. Overnight stay in Amphu Lapcha base camp.
Day 16: Cross Amphu Lapcha Pass (5,845 meters/19,177 feet) and trek to Chhukung
Start early in the morning to cross the challenging Amphu Lapcha Pass. Utilize mountaineering equipment and techniques for the pass crossing for 7-8 hours to reach Chhukung.
Day 17: Chhukung (4730 Meters)
Today is your rest day at Chhukung because you have done Mera Peak and the biggest high pass. Therefore it is very important to rest one more in Chhukung for the climbing island peak.
Day 18: Chhukung To Island Peak High Camp (5,400 Meters)
Ascend to the High Camp of Island Peak. The trail becomes steeper and more challenging as you gain altitude. The day’s trek takes around 5-6 hours. Rest and prepare for the summit push.
Day 19: Summit Day (6,189 Meters) And Descend To Base Camp
Start early in the morning for the summit push. The climb involves traversing glaciers, using crampons, and ascending steep sections. Reach the summit of Island Peak and savor the breathtaking views. Descend back to Base Camp 8-9-hrs.
Day 20: Island Peak Base Camp To Chhukung
Today your trek returns back to Chhukung village and you must return back the climbing equipment that you hire from Chhukung-5-6-hrs.
Day 21: Island Chhukung To Tengboche (3,860 Meters)
Trek to Tengboche, retracing your steps through Dingboche. Enjoy the scenic descent and the familiar trails. Trekking time is approximately 5-6 hours.
Day 22: Tengboche To Namche Bazaar
Continue descending from Tengboche to Namche Bazaar, passing through lush forests and charming villages. Trekking time is around 5- hours.
Day 23: Namche Bazaar To Lukla
The final leg of the trek, trekking from Namche Bazaar back to Lukla. Celebrate the completion of your journey with your team. Trekking time is approximately 6-7 hours.
Day 24: Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu
Take a scenic flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu. Transfer to your hotel and enjoy some leisure time. Overnight stay in Kathmandu.
Day 25: Kathmandu.
Today is your free day in Kathmandu we include a hotel with breakfast service.
Day 26: Departure from Kathmandu
Depart from Kathmandu with wonderful memories of your Mera and Island Peak climbing expedition.
Please note that this itinerary is a general guideline and can be adjusted based on weather conditions, your group’s pace, and other factors. Altitude acclimatization is crucial, so proper acclimatization days and climbing training are essential for a safe and successful Mera and Island peak climbing via Amphu Lapcha pass. Make sure to consult with experienced trekking and climbing operators, and obtain the necessary permits before embarking on this journey.
The best time to do Mera and Island peak climbing via Amphu Lapcha pass. is during the spring ( March to June) and autumn (September to November) seasons. These months offer the most favorable weather and optimal conditions in the Everest region. Spring (March to June): This is the post-winter season when the weather starts to warm up, and the trekking trails become vibrant with blooming flowers and rhododendrons. The temperature is generally mild, with clear skies and excellent visibility. It’s a great time to witness the beautiful landscapes, lush greenery, and panoramic mountain views.
Autumn (September to November): This is the post-monsoon season when the weather is stable, and the skies are generally clear. The temperature is comfortable, making it ideal for trekking and climbing. The autumn months offer breathtaking views of the mountains, including the Everest ranges, and the overall trekking experience is enhanced by the festive atmosphere during the Nepalese Dashain and Tihar festivals.
Both seasons have their advantages, and the choice ultimately depends on your preferences. If you enjoy seeing colorful flowers and blooming vegetation, spring is a good choice. If you prefer clearer skies and panoramic mountain views, autumn is a great option. It’s worth noting that the Everest region can be visited year-round, but other seasons such as winter (December to Feb) and monsoon (July to August) may bring more challenges due to cold temperatures, snowfall, and potential landslides.
